Back in Mexico, Right on Time: World Cup Fever, Fiestas, and the Brothers That Showed Up
I landed back in Mexico from Europe and barely had time to unpack before life here swept me straight back in. That is one of the things I love most about living where we do — there is always something happening, always a reason to be out in it. Staying home for too long is just not an option.
Fiestas Patronales: The Town That Doesn’t Sleep
First came the Fiestas Patronales — the patron saint festivals that cycle through the towns of Mexico each year, transforming plazas into celebrations that run for ten days straight. Ours honors Saint Anthony of Padua, and the transformation of the plaza is something to behold. Ferris wheels and bumper cars crammed into narrow cobblestone streets. Cohetes fired off in the early morning, the afternoon, and the early evening. Church every night followed by multiple bands playing into the wee hours. How anyone works or sleeps during the Fiestas I genuinely cannot tell you. But the joy of it is something.
The World Cup Arrives in Mexico
On June 11, everything shifted. The World Cup had come to Mexico — with games hosted in Guadalajara, Mexico City, and Monterrey — and I say this as someone who has never been a sports fan in her life: I was completely swept up. There was no resisting it. The entire country turned green and the energy was simply impossible not to absorb.
I bought the jersey. I painted my face with the Mexican flag. I blew the horn. I screamed at televisions in bars alongside strangers who became instant friends. I got covered in foam spray. I did the tequila shots. Mexico had me.
Our friends Dave and Erica were in town for the first game, and we started the day at a watch party in Zapopan for Mexico’s opening match against South Africa. As some of the only gringos in attendance, our presence was noted and warmly received, taking us in like family. Mexico won, and with each goal the crowd grew louder until the final whistle sent everyone into a congo line through the crowd. Pure joy!
One of the more unexpected and beautiful sights of the day was a massive quilt displayed in Zapopan, constructed by local women with panels representing each of the teams playing in the tournament. It was a stunning piece of collective artistry that perfectly captured the spirit of the whole event.
That evening we attended the actual World Cup match in Guadalajara — South Korea vs Czech Republic — and I can now say I have attended a World Cup game. But I also reinforced something I knew about myself: I am much happier at an outdoor watch party surrounded by Mexicans losing their minds than inside a stadium with inflated prices and long lines.
For Mexico’s second game against South Korea we joined a watch party in Chapala, which delivered— revelry, screaming, strangers hugging strangers, all the tequila…. These games take a lot out of the body, but give a lot back to the soul.
Joe’s Birthday: The Brothers Come to Town
For Joe’s birthday, his brothers Jeff and Dan came to visit — our first repeat guests. Jeff had been our very first visitor when we moved to Mexico. Dan had come earlier in the year with his wife Mara. This was the first time all three brothers had been together without their parents — possibly ever. It was always going to be a good week.
The first night we spent in Ajijic, reuniting with friends the brothers had met on their previous visits. The next morning we headed to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, a fishing village near Puerto Vallarta, for a HomeExchange stay. We found a beach club offering day passes with all-inclusive drinks and fresh seafood, and spent one of those long, unhurried beach days that feel impossible to leave. We also took a boat out for snorkeling, adding another good afternoon to the list.
The last night in La Cruz happened to coincide with the Mexico-Ecuador World Cup game. We found a local bar, settled in with the Mexicans, and watched Mexico take the win in the best possible company. We ended up befriending two brothers at the bar — so the brothers had a brothers’ alliance going — and with each Mexican goal, tequila was poured. We also kicked off Joe’s birthday prequel with more shots and revelry because Mexico….
On the drive back we stopped at Balneario La Toma, a pool complex near Tequila that is essentially built into the jungle — gorgeous trees with enormous exposed roots, multiple pools of different temperatures, and a coati roaming the property with adorable curiosity. A perfect detour.
Back home, the surprise birthday party I had planned for Joe turned out not to be a surprise after the venue posted it on Facebook. But it was a great party regardless — delicious food catered by our friend Pam, the Latin Jockey Band keeping everyone moving all night, and a gathering of friends who made Joe feel celebrated properly. Which was the whole point.
Saying goodbye to Jeff and Dan the next morning was bittersweet. These two have shown up for us here in ways that mean more than I can easily say — they are not just Joe’s brothers, they are family in the fullest sense, and having them here, in our home, in our world, is something I am genuinely grateful for. Joe and I haven’t been married for too long, but these are my brothers too.
The Final: Mexico and England
Mexico had not reached the quarterfinals since 1986. They had entered this match without conceding a single goal. The entire country was holding its breath.
We watched the England match on the Ajijic malecón in a crowd of green jerseys, the lake behind us and the mountains beyond it, surrounded by people who had spent weeks pouring everything into this team. Mexico played their hearts out. They couldn’t secure the win. We walked away sad, the way you only get sad about something you’ve let yourself truly care about — which means it was worth every minute of it.
I am proud to live in this country. I am proud of that team and what they gave everyone who watched them. And I am proud of the way this community — our community — came together around something joyful at a moment when joy felt important.
What a summer to be in Mexico.
