Día de Muertos Beyond the Lake: Our Adventures in Tlaquepaque and Ixtlahuacán
The first task of the Día de Muertos season is always setting up our home ofrenda. I absolutely love the essence of Día de Muertos- the remembering and welcoming back of those who have passed before us. So many times it seems frowned upon to talk about our lost loved ones, but not during this time of year. It is a time to bring out the old photos, speak to them, and give thanks. I love it.
While the Lake Chapala lakeside communities host incredible celebrations, part of the fun is venturing out to experience how neighboring towns mark the season. This year, we took two trips to experience the festivities in Tlaquepaque and Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos.
Tlaquepaque: Storefront Ofrendas and Traditional Parades
We kicked off Día de Muertos with a Sunday walk around Tlaquepaque. This vibrant artisan town does an incredible job with its storefront and restaurant decorations, offering beautiful and touching ofrendas throughout the main pedestrian zone.
The area was packed with people there to soak in the decor and catch the parade scheduled for later that evening (which, sadly, we had to miss). Arriving earlier in the day, we ended up right in the main plaza as countless native Mexican tribes gathered to rehearse their routines and songs. It was an absolute visual and sensory explosion watching it all unfold at once.
Because it was the weekend before Halloween, the pageantry featured a fascinating cultural crossover- the traditional groups included performers playing a “spook factor” role, blending ancient indigenous roots with modern Halloween fun.
Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos: Seed Tapetes, Catrinas, and Epic Fireworks
The following Sunday on November 1, we headed out to Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos with our friends Jeremy and Larry. We had attended last year and were so blown away by the plaza decor, community ofrendas, and traditional tapetes (intricate carpets made from seeds, beans, nuts, and colored sawdust) that we knew we had to return.
As you walk into the main plaza, the scale of the community’s tribute is immediately breathtaking. Simulated graves are built directly into the public square, complete with wooden crosses, glowing marigolds (cempasúchil), colorful papel picado, and framed photographs of local loved ones resting atop the mounds. Overlooking this powerful memorial space is a giant, beautifully painted skull that sets a deeply respectful and immersive tone for the entire town. It shows a profound public display of collective memory where the entire plaza becomes a symbolic resting place.
The Community Competition
The main street through town is closed off each year for a fierce competition where local families, businesses, and groups build elaborate altars and tapetes to honor deceased loved ones. Backed by municipal support and prize money to encourage local artistry, participants truly go all out. The tributes are deeply personal, creative, and profoundly moving.
The Catrina Contest
Last year, we missed the Catrina contest, so making sure we caught it was a must and we were so glad we did. Gathered in the plaza beforehand, the contestants were breathtaking up close. Many costumes are handmade, showcasing mind-blowing creativity and innovation. (Just look at that incredible gown crafted from feed and seed bags in the photo!) The sheer time and craftsmanship poured into each design is staggering.
Exploring the Historic Cemetery
As evening descended, we took a walk through the town’s old cemetery. Decades ago, the space fell into deep neglect, but local community members and municipal leaders successfully rescued and restored the grounds. Today, it functions as a treasured open-air cultural museum and a central landscape for the community.
While it is maintained as a respectful historical site, during Día de Muertos it transforms into a magical, glowing sanctuary for visitors to witness a traditional Mexican cemetery alive with light and memory. Walking through it feels like stepping into another realm- if you are ever in the area next year, do not miss it.
The Grand Finale: Projection Mapping & Drone Fireworks
As night took full hold, we returned to the main plaza to watch a stunning video projection mapped across the face of the church. The swirling colors and traditional soundscapes set the stage perfectly for what came next: one of the wildest fireworks displays I have ever witnessed.
As we wandered earlier in the day, we had noticed pyrotechnics rigged all over the plaza. They certainly did not disappoint. The grand finale even featured a giant neon Catrina elevated above the roaring crowd by the largest drone I have ever seen, shooting off cascading fireworks into the night sky. It was utterly wild.
We may venture to new destinations in the future for Día de Muertos, but whenever we are in Jalisco, Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos will always be on our list. It is well worth the journey!
Head over and subscribe to my YouTube channel at Retire and Roam YouTube to watch more of the vibrant parades, amazing costumes, and unforgettable fireworks on video.