Día de Muertos in Chapala, Ajijic, and San Antonio Tlayacapan: Local Traditions and Colorful Celebrations Our Día de Muertos celebrations continued close to home this year, as we explored the local festivities in Chapala, Ajijic, and San Antonio Tlayacapan. Each town offered something uniquely beautiful, honoring the ancestors in color, music, and tradition. In Chapala, we watched a vibrant Ballet Folklórico performance that brought the spirit of Día de Muertos to life through dance. The streets were bursting with color — bright orange cempasúchil flowers, paper decorations, and elegant Catrinas and Catrines strolling through the crowds. The whole town radiated energy and pride in its cultural heritage.   https://youtube.com/shorts/z9CP6LeWxNg?feature=share Ajijic came alive at sunset along the malecón. Locals and expats celebrated side by side — faces painted, dressed in colorful outfits, and sharing smiles. The Street of Altars was especially moving, lined with beautifully designed ofrendas honoring loved ones. It was a stunning mix of creativity, respect, and community spirit. In San Antonio Tlayacapan, the celebration was more intimate and deeply personal. The plaza displayed photos of residents who had passed away, alongside a table dedicated to ancestors from generations past. It was a heartfelt tribute that connected the living with those who came before them — a reminder of the true meaning of Día de Muertos. Overall, our first Día de Muertos in Mexico was unforgettable. From Tlaquepaque and Ixtlahuacán to Chapala, Ajijic, and San Antonio, we witnessed how each town brings its own flavor to the celebration. We can’t wait to experience it all again next year.

Día de Muertos Adventures: From Tlaquepaque’s Parade to Ixtlahuacán’s Spectacle October 25 officially kicked off our Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) festivities — something I’ve been looking forward to since we decided to move to Mexico. Last year, we arrived just after the celebrations ended, catching glimpses of the vibrant decorations that lingered in the streets. This year, I was ready to take it all in. Tlaquepaque’s Día de Muertos Parade Our first stop was Tlaquepaque, a charming town just outside Guadalajara known for its art, music, and cultural traditions. The whole town came alive with color — brilliant cempasúchil (marigold) flowers, painted skulls, and dazzling altars. Restaurants went all out, creating elaborate ofrendas (altars) filled with candles, papel picado, and photographs of loved ones. The Día de Muertos parade was incredible — a feast for the senses with Catrinas and Catrines, mariachi bands, and even hearses and coffins rolling by in creative displays. The atmosphere was pure joy mixed with reverence, a perfect reflection of the Mexican way of honoring life and death. https://youtube.com/shorts/2zdDNsHfMPc?si=FpXzV4OX4S1MolRy Celebrating in Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos On Friday, October 31, we ventured to Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos, a nearby town in Jalisco that takes Día de Muertos celebrations to the next level. Locals told us this is the place to experience the most elaborate displays and competitions — and they were right! Each year, the town awards prizes for the best tapetes (sand or sawdust art), Purgatory Brides, Catrinas, altars, and wreaths. The creativity and detail were breathtaking. The main plaza was transformed into a massive skull-shaped cemetery, with each grave honoring a departed loved one — beautifully illuminated at night. We watched another unforgettable parade, a sea of colorfully dressed “dead” returning to celebrate with the living. Later, the church façade became a canvas for a stunning projection show filled with glowing skulls and dancing lights, followed by fireworks bursting through the church towers — truly spectacular! The crowd was festive and welcoming. We chatted with new friends in the bleachers who danced along with the music, and even handed out Halloween candy to children in costume. Many Mexican families now celebrate both Halloween and Día de Muertos, seeing them as complementary — one for fun and imagination, the other for remembrance and reflection. The night ended with a performance by the band Dinamo, who rocked the plaza with energy, flames, and pyrotechnics. It was a perfect example of how Mexicans love to celebrate life, and how lucky we are to be part of it. https://youtube.com/shorts/jvRjps3sP7E?feature=share A Peaceful Stay and a Beautiful Morning We stayed overnight at a lovely hotel, Hotel El Dorado, just ten minutes from the plaza, a true oasis with lush gardens and three serene pools. The next morning, we watched families and artists constructing their altars and tapetes, carefully arranging marigolds, candles, and offerings. Seeing the creative process firsthand made me appreciate the tradition even more — it’s an act of love and memory that brings the community together. We wandered through the town, admiring the wreaths and tributes crafted for the competitions. It’s clear that every design carried deep personal meaning. As we left, we both agreed — this visit would become a new annual tradition for us. 🌼 Reflections Día de Muertos in Jalisco is so much more than a holiday — it’s a living expression of love, remembrance, and joy. From Tlaquepaque’s parade to Ixtlahuacán’s incredible displays, the celebration captures the essence of Mexican culture: honoring the past while celebrating the present.

Welcoming Our First Visitor and the No Kings Parade in Ajijic When Joe’s brother, Jeff, came to visit, it felt like a milestone — our first visitor since moving to Chapala, Mexico. While we were thrilled to see him, I’ll admit I was a bit nervous. Joe and I have grown to love this charming little lakeside town and all its eccentricities, but would someone seeing it for the first time feel the same way? The people here are warm and welcoming, the Lake Chapala views are stunning, and the food is always delicious. But this area isn’t for everyone — uneven cobblestone streets, roaming dogs, and the lively mix of sounds and smells can be a bit of a sensory adventure. Still, I hoped Jeff would see what we see: a community full of heart, history, and vibrancy. Exploring Chapala and Beyond As it turned out, Jeff fit right in. We introduced him to some of our closest friends, and he immediately connected with them. One of the highlights of his trip was a boat tour to Isla de Mezcala, a fascinating island rich with history — from its indigenous roots and Spanish battles to its time as a Mexican prison, often compared to Alcatraz. Our guide, Cesar, shared captivating stories that brought the island’s past to life. We nearly had the entire place to ourselves, making it a truly special experience. Food and Local Favorites Of course, no visit to Ajijic would be complete without diving into the local food scene. We took Jeff to La Paceña, our favorite upscale seafood spot, and then to two of our favorite casual gems — the blue shed tacos in the plaza and El Chef de la Nena,tucked in a backyard, where the food is made with love and guests are treated like family. Dancing in the Street: The Camaleón Tradition Jeff also got to experience a birthday celebration for our friend Mark, where he quickly learned one of our favorite local traditions — dancing on the manhole cover outside Camaleón Bar. What started as a fun quirk has become a local ritual for our group, and Jeff jumped right in. Watching him laugh, dance, and soak in the spirit of Ajijic made me realize how much this place has become home. https://youtube.com/shorts/TF7t9CjSz6w?si=cBk3J3voCXHhd1nk The No Kings Protest and Parade The day after Jeff left, we joined the No Kings Protest in the Ajijic Plaza.  It was both powerful and emotional to see a reminder that this beautiful town is not just a place of color and culture, but of conscience and compassion. Reflections Hosting Jeff reminded us how much there is to love about Ajijic — its mix of history, community, and joy. Seeing it through his eyes reaffirmed why we’ve grown so attached to this lakeside village. Between boat rides, street tacos, and dancing in the plaza, it was the perfect reminder that life here, for all its quirks, is full of connection and meaning.

Celebrating Our First Anniversary in Puebla: Color, Culture, and Cemitas To celebrate our first anniversary, Joe and I decided to take a quick getaway to Puebla, Mexico—a city known for its colorful streets, incredible cuisine, and deep cultural heritage. Puebla’s historic center is incredibly walkable which is perfect for a quick weekend away. We booked a few nights at the Casona de la China Poblana, a charming boutique hotel located in the heart of Puebla’s historic center. The building itself is steeped in legend—it’s said to be the former home of Catarina de San Juan, the “China Poblana,” whose story inspired the city’s traditional dress. The rooms are spacious and full of character, blending colonial architecture with modern comfort. Exploring Puebla’s Colorful Streets We loved wandering around the Zócalo, Puebla’s lively main square. There, we spotted our first Catrina of the season, a sure sign that Día de los Muertos is near.  At night, we loved strolling through the Alley of the Frogs (Callejón de los Sapos)—especially when it was lit up. Nearby, the Artist Quarter (Barrio del Artista) was full of painters  at work, surrounded by cozy cafes and galleries. Sunday Markets and Local Treasures Sunday brought a whirlwind of market hopping. We visited at least six, including Mercado de Analco, Parián Market, and our favorite—one tucked right in the Alley of the Frogs. Each had its own specialty, from antiques and toys to handmade crafts and folk art.    Puebla Food Highlights No trip to Puebla would be complete without sampling its legendary food scene: Cemitas y Tortas La Poblanita – We split one cemita, and it was more than enough! The bread was light yet crispy, piled high with cheese, avocado, and perfectly seasoned meat. It’s easy to see why this sandwich is a local favorite. Taquería Don Pastor – Their tacos were fantastic—especially the taco arbabe, tender and flavorful with just the right char. Augurio – For a special anniversary dinner, we splurged on a meal at Augurio, one of Puebla’s top restaurants specializing in traditional moles. My filet with mole sauce was outstanding—rich, balanced, and beautifully plated. A Night of Music, Boxing, and Magic Our most unexpected experience was at Beat 803, a local venue hosting a show featuring three bands—with boxing matches in between sets (video below)! It was my first boxing match ever (and definitely the first time I’ve seen one in a bar). We also caught a magician performing mind-blowing tricks in a cozy cocktail bar. Our anniversary trip to Puebla was quick but full of delicious food, rich culture, and a few delightful surprises. Exploring Mexico continues to delight!  

Life Takes Root in San Antonio, Mexico As life in San Antonio, Lake Chapala moves forward, we’re feeling more at home every day. When I say “home” now, I’m thinking of this place—its sounds, colors, and friendly rhythm of life. Our weeks have developed a nice balance of exploring new things, connecting with the community, and creating a home that feels uniquely ours. Finding Art, Culture, and Community Weekends continue to bring new adventures—dancing with friends, discovering local cultural events, and exploring new restaurants. One of our favorite discoveries has been the local art auctions held at least once a month. They’re wonderful opportunities to find discounted Mexican art, and each piece feels like it carries a story of this region. We also love attending the San Antonio Art Market in the plaza, where local artisans display handmade jewelry, textiles, and crafts. The house is gradually filling with Mexican art—bright, textured, and full of life. I’m curious to see how my older art collection from the U.S. will blend in once we’re able to bring it here. Embracing Local Life and Services One of the great things about living here is how accessible and affordable many professional services are compared to the U.S. After wearing contacts for more than 35 years, I decided to finally get LASIK surgery. The process was efficient, professional, and much more affordable than the US. It’s an amazing feeling to wake up and see clearly after so many years! I also commissioned a custom patio table from a neighbor who builds beautiful furniture out of his home workshop. I had noticed his work during my daily walks and, with my limited Spanish, arranged for him to build a table. A week later, we picked it up—an original, handcrafted piece that perfectly fits our outdoor space.  Experiencing the Fiestas de San Francisco Recently, we attended the Fiestas de San Francisco in Chapala, a nine-day celebration honoring the city’s patron saint. Every day brought parades, church services, music, food, and fireworks. The atmosphere was electric—families filled the streets, kids played games, and everyone joined in the celebration. One of the most fascinating traditions we witnessed was the castillo—a towering structure covered in fireworks that spin, sparkle, and explode in dazzling patterns. These fiery displays are an important part of Mexican heritage, recognized by UNESCO for their cultural significance. Watching them ignite against the night sky while a mariachi band played was truly breathtaking. Joe even joined in the local games, impressing everyone with his balloon-dart accuracy and winning me a small ceramic dog bank that now watches over our garden. Living Beyond the Expat Bubble While it’s easy to stay within the expat community here—especially in nearby Ajijic—we love being immersed in authentic Mexican life. That’s why we chose San Antonio. The sense of community, the warmth of the people, and the joy of local traditions have made us feel truly connected. I’ve started making it a mission to research and find local festivals and cultural events, many of which aren’t advertised on expat Facebook groups. It takes a bit of digging, but every discovery feels like a hidden gem. With Día de Muertos approaching, I’m already looking forward to the next round of colorful, meaningful celebrations. https://youtube.com/shorts/jquEWx7U7LY

Celebrating Community, Culture, and Cats in San Antonio, Mexico Since moving to San Antonio Tlayacapan in the Lake Chapala region of Jalisco, Joe and I have been soaking in every aspect of life here—from volunteering with animals to dancing at fiestas, trying incredible food, and joining in on traditional celebrations.  One of the most rewarding parts of our routine has been volunteering at a nearby cat shelter. The space is home to dozens of cats—15 or so playful kittens in a shared area and several adult cats housed in small groups. Our “job” is simple: give them attention, pets, and affection. The shelter is just a 30-minute walk from our house, making it an easy part of our weekly rhythm.  Celebrations In San Antonio Tlayaycapan San Antonio’s plaza has been alive with celebrations lately.  Earlier this month, the community gathered in the plaza to honor the artists who have transformed San Antonio with murals and public art. The event was full of life: mariachi performances, schoolchildren singing and dancing, puppetry and theater, and heartfelt recognition of the talent that beautifies the town. The celebration reinforced what I love most here: art is for everyone, and the whole community takes pride in it. Fiestas Patrias: Independence Day in San Antonio One of the highlights of September in Mexico is Fiestas Patrias, celebrating the country’s independence from Spain. Saturday Night, the plaza transformed into a lively party with food stalls, rides for kids, music, dancing, the traditional Cry of Independence, and a powerful mariachi band (not surprising, since mariachi originated in Jalisco in the 18th century).  On Sunday, the parade was a vibrant showcase of the region’s youth and traditions. Children marched with their schools, brass bands filled the streets with music, and riders on horseback wore elaborate traditional costumes. Following the parade was the infamous pole-climbing contest.  Teams of men formed human pyramids to reach bags of prizes tied at the top, while the crowd cheered wildly. At one point, locals tried to rope Joe into joining—it was hilarious to watch him politely decline (and then hide)! All of these agains were again a reminder of how central family and community are in Mexican culture. https://youtube.com/shorts/3az1uhgMKiE?si=yuCf1-yc99kSbND1https://youtube.com/shorts/ZixEnorwHT8?feature=share Dancing, Birthdays, and Sparkles In between cultural events, we also attended a few parties—and like everything here, they were full of music, DJs, and dancing. People here truly know how to celebrate. One party even had a “dress fabulous” theme. I hadn’t expected to need my sequined dresses so soon after moving, but they are on my list of things to bring down here in our next luggage haul. Food is always central to our adventures, and recently we discovered a few new favorites: El Chef de la Nena- Venezuelan Arepas in San Antonio – Tucked in a backyard garden, this little gem is run by a lovely Venezuelan couple. We tried arepas stuffed with mushrooms, plantains, spinach and cheese, and tender meats. Arepas are paired with Papelón con Limón, a refreshing drink made from raw sugarcane and lime. https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZSAPZUbFPtGQbcCP9 Rosemary Restaurant in Ajijic – A beautiful open-air space filled with trees and local artwork. The atmosphere was serene, the food fresh and delicious, and I was reminded once again how much I love Mexico’s tradition of dining al fresco. Rain showers can be a challenge, but most restaurants handle it gracefully. https://maps.app.goo.gl/F2oT62C48dBCdHQB6 Life here is vibrant—rooted in history, alive with music and dance, and always centered around family and community. Every day makes me more grateful that Joe and I took the leap to build our life in Mexico.  Viva Mexico!!

A Week in Mexico City: Music, Markets, and Culture When Joe and I realized we could see Kamasi Washington, Oasis, and Air all in the same week in Mexico City, it felt like the perfect excuse to spend time in this world-class capital. With flights from Guadalajara just an hour long, it definitely felt like a no brainer! Mexico City exceeded my expectations. It reminded me of New York City in how each neighborhood had its own personality—busy streets leading to quiet, tree-lined corners. We stayed in Roma Sur, a safe, peaceful, and walkable neighborhood with a convenient metro stop, and explored the city mostly by subway. At just 5 pesos a ride (about 25¢ USD), it was fast, reliable, and incredibly affordable. Here is how we spent the week- Art, Museums, and Culture Mexico City is a cultural powerhouse filled with so much amazing art. Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul): Walking through her house gave insight into her pain, passion, and inspiration. The vivid blue walls and lush gardens alone are worth the visit. Museo Nacional de Antropología: One of the world’s most important anthropology museums. The Aztec Sun Stone, Mayan relics, and massive pre-Hispanic collections could take a whole day to explore.  We did a quick tour with plans to return for more exploration later. Museo de Arte Popular: A celebration of traditional Mexican crafts—colorful masks, alebrijes (fantastical creatures), and folk art. We even caught a performance of wheelchair dancers, which was both powerful and inspiring. Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares: A smaller gem focused on traditional art and textiles with bold, intricate designs. Biblioteca Vasconcelos: The famous “mega-library” where futuristic floating bookshelves make you feel like you’ve stepped into a sci-fi movie.   https://youtube.com/shorts/R6q5Ussinp8?feature=share Markets and Parks Few cities in the world can match Mexico City’s market culture. We loved wandering through each one and discovering something new: La Lagunilla Market – A sprawling Sunday tianguis with everything from antiques to screen-printed art. Tianguis Cultural del Chopo – A legendary punk and goth market with band tees, vinyl, and some of the best people-watching in the city. Parque México and Parque España – These two parks are next to each other and both lovely.  We were able to see a few quinceañera photo shoots while strolling through.  Right outside the park is Churrería El Moro: Crispy churros dipped in thick, rich hot chocolate- so good!! Independence Day in Mexico City The big Independence Day festivities take place on September 15.  During the day, we walked through the Zócalo, decorated in red, white, and green, imagining the crowds that would gather that evening for President Claudia Sheinbaum’s historic first “Grito de Dolores” (Cry of Independence)—the first time a female president would lead the nation in this tradition. At night, we opted for a more local celebration in Coyoacán, where families filled the plaza. We watched the 11pm Grito de Dolores in a local bar which was fun and festive. https://youtube.com/shorts/baGibjocmEE?feature=share The Music Scene in Mexico City We centered our trip around three incredible concerts—and each one was a highlight in its own way. Kamasi Washington at Pepsi Center: Spacious venue, roaming beer sellers so you never miss a song, and vendors outside selling inexpensive merch. Oasis at Estadio GNP Seguros: The energy was electric as fans gathered at local bars beforehand, singing Oasis hits over micheladas. By the time the band took the stage, the atmosphere was euphoric. Air at Auditorio Nacional: An incredibly cool venue—modern design, fantastic acoustics, and a fitting stage for Air’s dreamy sound. Beyond the big shows, we found live music everywhere: Café Jazzatlán blew us away with Manguito con Chile, a funk-jazz-Latin fusion band with phenomenal energy. Terraza Bizarro hosted a moody Portishead tribute on the rooftop terraza. Foro Bizarro leaned into Mexico City’s goth and underground side with its dark, skull-filled aesthetic for the Rue Oberkampf show. By the end of the week, Joe and I were ready to return to our tranquil pueblo, but loved our time in the big city and know that visits will be a regular occurrence.   

Settling into San Antonio, Lake Chapala: Our First Month of New Routines, Sunsets & Connections Joe and I have officially wrapped up our first month living in San Antonio Tlayacapan, right in the heart of the Lake Chapala region of Mexico. This area has already begun to feel like home as we adjust to new rhythms, soak in the local culture, and enjoy the slower pace of life by the lake. New Routines in a New Place This past month has been all about settling into fresh routines- walking to most places, picking up fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, going to my local yoga studio, swimming in the pool on hot afternoons, Spanish practice, and biking around town.  I’m learning to bike along the cobblestone streets—challenging, but a good way to get quickly to nearby towns.  One of the most simple yet rewarding parts of our days is making time for sunsets on the malecón. From our house, it’s only a five-minute walk, and on evenings when we don’t have plans, it feels silly not to go. The views of the lake and mountains are simply breathtaking, and the malecón is always great for dog watching. Music Around Every Corner One evening, as we walked down for the malecon sunset, we stumbled upon a band setting up with the lake as their backdrop. It was a magical moment.  From live music to mariachi bands we hear in he distance from our patio, the streets here are alive with rhythm. Trivia, Connection, and Friendships Another night, we joined new friends at a local cocktail bar for trivia night. While waiting at the bar, I struck up a conversation with a woman who has lived here for four years. As we swapped stories about what drew us to the area, she teared up describing the magic and energy of this place. We hugged, and just like that, I made another connection. That’s the beauty of this community—people are open, curious, and eager to connect in ways I rarely experienced back in the States. Day Trips & Everyday Life Driving into Guadalajara is its own adventure, especially for official errands like obtaining RFC cards or visiting doctors. The traffic is intense, and the pace of the city feels worlds away from Lake Chapala. On one trip, our driver—who had been deported from the U.S. after living in North Carolina since age 16—shared his story. It was heartbreaking and another reminder of the complicated realities of life between borders. Another big adjustment has been living in a cash-based economy. Unlike back home where I almost never carried cash, here it’s essential and small bills are gold. At first it felt inconvenient, but there’s also a certain charm. Life here feels more personal, more connected to neighbors, and in some ways like stepping back in time. Community, Parties & Celebration This past weekend was filled with social moments and cultural experiences. We attended our first birthday party in Mexico, held in a hillside development in Ajijic with a pool, live mariachi band, and plenty of dancing. The crowd was a lively mix of Mexicans and expats, and the celebration flowed naturally from house party to bar to late-night club with a DJ. On Sunday, we celebrated another new friend’s birthday with a delicious meal at the inn where we first stayed during our scouting trip to Ajijic. I don’t usually eat filet mignon back in the States, but here it’s affordable and abundant—a little luxury I’m happy to indulge in. Later, we joined a local environmental festival raising awareness for Lake Chapala. The vibe was youthful and vibrant, with people bringing their own drinks, dancing in the rain, and enjoying two very different bands—one that had everyone dancing in circles and another that launched the crowd into a wild ska mosh pit. It felt like a throwback to my college days in the ’90s, full of energy, joy, and freedom. Already Feeling Like Home What stands out most to me after this first month is how easy it is to feel connected here. Whether on the malecón, at the market, or during a night out, conversations spark effortlessly, friendships form quickly, and the sense of community is strong. People greet each other on the streets, music is always within earshot, and life flows with a kind of openness and joy that I find deeply refreshing. As Joe and I move into our second month in San Antonio, I’m excited to keep building routines, improving my Spanish, and saying “yes” to the many opportunities for connection and celebration that seem to find us every single day. https://youtu.be/L_YM3SuJw7ohttps://youtu.be/ACn5muBeh6M